Saint-Maximin-La Baume might be missing from the list of popular tourist destinations in the south of France. However, it is unique in its Catholic heritage. It houses the Basilica of Saint-Maximin, sometimes called the Basilica of St. Mary Magdalene. According to local tradition, she and other disciples who were expelled from Palestine ended up in this region.
An impressively preserved construction, the basilica holds relics, monuments, and an extraordinary collection of works of art. The site is massive — 73 meters long, 43 meters wide, and 29 meters high — and is considered Provence’s largest Gothic building.
When Charles II of Anjou’s excavation project discovered St. Mary Magdalene’s tomb in 1279, Charles saw the unexpected treasure as the perfect opportunity to honor the saint. Once the relics were authorized, His Holiness Pape Boniface VIII approved construction, which started in 1295. It took 236 years to build.
Why was construction on and off for two centuries? Why was it completed only in 1532?
Our tour guide, Florence Humbert, reminded us of many invasions throughout France’s turbulent history. As she explained:
“Remember, too, this was not Paris but a little village in Provence. Just think of the work involved in a building of this size at the time. Then there was the plague in 1348, a terrible time for France when construction stopped and wasn’t renewed until 1404.”
At the end of the 13th century, the church finally became a significant pilgrimage center under the care of Dominican priors.
The crypt and Mary Magdalene’s skull
The atmosphere of the basilica is breathtaking, with high vaults and stained-glass windows. There are 16 chapels dedicated to the saints, each adorned with paintings, a high altar, and its own organ, pulpit, and intricately carved wooden stalls.
But the heart of the basilica is the crypt. It is situated under the ground floor down a narrow staircase. The ceiling is low, with limited space and little lighting. A grille protects the magnificent 1860 reliquary containing Mary Madeleine’s skull.
In 2019, a pair of researchers used photos of the skull to digitally recreate an image of Mary Magdalene’s head and face. Their work was the subject of a National Geographic documentary.
Mary Magdalene’s remains were unearthed in the 13th century. Three other sarcophagi were also discovered at the time and are displayed in the crypt: St. Maximin, St. Sidonie (Sidonius), and St. Marcelle.
Who was St. Maximin?
Who was St. Maximin? How important was he in the Catholic Church?
Florence Humbert told us that according to tradition, St. Maximin was one of Christ’s 72 disciples. St. Maximin accompanied Mary and her siblings on her journey to France: they were all refugees traveling in a boat.
On arriving in the country, St. Maximin established a Christian community and spread the word of God. According to legends, Mary Magdalene preferred solitude, living for 30 years in a cave in the massive area called Saint Baume in Provence.
St. Maximin later became a bishop and organized Mary Magdalene’s burial.
Musical treasures
The basilica’s organ was the work of Brother Jean-Esprit Isnard, a skilled Dominican friar and organ builder, who also had the help of his nephew.
They built the relatively austere, wide organ in the basilica from 1772 to 1774. It has a total of 2,960 pipes.
Considered to be unique in its conception, the organ was classified as a “historic monument” in 1953.
Two remarkable statues, more than two meters high, are also on display. They are of St. Cecilia, the patron saint of music, and King David, a skilled musician who composed the Psalms in the Bible.
A major renovation
A much-needed project to restore, protect, and enhance the entire apse area was recently completed. High humidity levels were a huge problem, as were the cracks and deterioration in the marble, the sculptures, and the woodwork. The project took 18 months to complete and ended in April this year.
“A huge tarpaulin covered everything while they worked,” Humbert explained, “keeping it top secret for a while. No one could see what was going on.”
Florence Humbert’s passion for the cultural heritage of the basilica is strong. She observed:
“The Dominican friars of the 20th century hoped to see the restoration, but it was not fully realized until 2024. We are grateful to all the actors in this great project, which restores the basilica to its true nobility for future generations.”
And today we celebrate...