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Discovering Italy’s other St. Peter’s in Porto Venere

St. Peter's Church Porto Venere

Luca Casartelli | CC BY-SA 2.0

V. M. Traverso - published on 07/08/24

The Early Christian clifftop Church of St. Peter on Italy’s Gulf of Poets is one of the country’s most scenic places of worship.

Rome’s St. Peter’s Basilica is by definition the most famous church in the world, but there’s another St. Peter’s ranked high on the list of most scenic churches in Italy. Built in the 5th century atop a dramatic cliff overlooking the Gulf of Poets in Italy’s Cinque Terre region, Porto Venere’s St. Peter’s Church is one of the country’s most scenic places of worship.

Archeological evidence shows that the current building was erected on a previous place of worship established during the Early Christian era. For its first five centuries, the church was under the monks of the order of St. Colombanus of Bobbio.

In 1118, Pope Gelasius II ordered the transport of a relic of St. Peter to the cliffside church and officially consecrated the church to him.

Surviving history

Currently looking well-preserved thanks to restoration projects that were carried out between 1929 and 1934, St. Peter’s church has survived a series of severe attacks and looting since the mid-15th century.

First, it was partially destroyed by bombs shot by the fleet of Charles VIII during the First Italian War. Then, during the Napoleonic wars, the church was occupied by Austro-Russian troops and later by Napoleonic troops, who looted its artworks and melted its bells to craft weapons.

Despite these dramatic events, St. Peter’s is currently one of the finest examples of the Genoese Gothic style of architecture in Italy. 

The church, composed of two different buildings – a more recent Gothic structure and an older Romanic complex – is developed along three naves with round arches supported by a series of columns made with local black stone. The façade is decorated with horizontal black and white stripes typical of Genoese architecture and was probably completed between 1256 and 1270 by order of the Republic of Genoa.

What is really outstanding about St. Peter’s is the way that, despite being an amalgamation of different pre-existing buildings, it looks as though it has sprouted organically from the dramatic cliffs that overlook the Gulf of Poets: a gem of Italy’s Liguria region that inspired poets like Lord Byron and Eugenio Montale.

A stunning view

Visitors to the church can enjoy one of the best lookouts in the region, with a stunning view of the Bay of Porto Venere with the island of Palmaria in the background. Unsurprisingly, the church is very popular for wedding celebrations with people from all over the country

But St. Peter’s plays an important role for local believers, too. It hosts a painting called “White Madonna,” which holds a special place in local devotion. According to tradition, the painting arrived from the sea in 1204. It was found inside a log of wood that held, along with the painting, some relics contained in chests decorated with Persian art motifs. Every year on the eve of August 17, locals gather to celebrate the White Madonna, lighting thousands of candles that add to the otherworldly atmosphere of the church. 

The Church of St. Peter is open for visits between 8:30 a.m. and 7:00 p.m. every day of the week. 

Tags:
ArtChurch HistoryItaly
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